July 28, 2025
Every summer, as the barley ripens and monsoon clouds skirt the high desert plateaus of Mustang, the quiet mountain trails erupt into thunder. Hooves pound the earth. Riders in flowing robes and ancestral ornaments gallop past cheering villagers. Laughter, prayers, archery, and competition fill the air. This is Yartung Festival—a vibrant fusion of warrior spirit, religious devotion, and seasonal gratitude that sweeps across the Kali Gandaki valley from Muktinath to Lo Manthang.
What is the Yartung Festival?
Yartung (also spelled Yartung Mela) is a multi-day Tibetan Buddhist festival celebrated during August (depending on the lunar calendar), marking the end of summer and the beginning of harvest. Its name derives from “Yar” (summer) and “Tung” (end), symbolizing both seasonal transition and community renewal.
But this isn’t just a harvest festival. At its heart, Yartung is a celebration of Mustang’s horse culture, deeply entwined with its Tibetan-Buddhist and warrior past. The festival centers on horse races, archery, drinking, dancing, and religious rituals, all honoring the gods, the king, and the ancestors.
Where and How is it Celebrated?
Yartung is celebrated throughout Mustang, especially in:
- Lo Manthang (Upper Mustang)
- Muktinath (lower Mustang, near Jomsom)
- Lubrak, Kagbeni, Chhoser, and other villages
In Muktinath, the festival lasts three to four days, each devoted to different members of society:
- Day 1: Celebration by monks and Lamas, who perform rituals, blessings, and mask dances.
- Day 2: Chiefs and village leaders ride and race.
- Day 3: The youth and general public take part in games, archery, and drinking competitions.
In Lo Manthang, the festival tends to be more formal and grand, with ceremonial processions involving the King of Mustang, monks from Chhoede Monastery, and village elders.
The Horse: More Than an Animal
In Mustang, horses have historically been a symbol of nobility, mobility, and spiritual strength. In a land of rugged trails and high passes, horses were once the lifelines of trade, war, and communication. Yartung honors this heritage, turning the spotlight on Mustang’s finest riders—young men (and increasingly women) who’ve trained for months.
Adorned in elaborate Tibetan robes, with long red tassels streaming from their hair, riders mount their steeds bareback. The racing is raw, fast, and dangerous. Riders show off with one-handed gallops, precision turns, and stunts like picking up scarves from the ground at full speed.
For villagers, betting on horses, cheering for clan members, and celebrating winners with barley beer (chang) and meat feasts is all part of the revelry.
Rituals and Religious Elements
Although Yartung is lively and even wild, it’s not without solemnity. It begins with pujas and blessings, invoking the protection of local deities and lamas. Muktinath Temple, sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, becomes a focal point, drawing pilgrims and villagers alike.
Lamas chant mantras, light butter lamps, and bless the horses and riders before the races. Offerings are made to spirits of the land to ensure a good harvest, community health, and continued prosperity.
In villages like Kagbeni and Lubrak, where the Bon tradition still lingers, shamanic elements are woven into the Yartung celebration, blending animism and Buddhist cosmology.
Local Culture on Full Display
Yartung is not just a festival—it’s a cultural unveiling. Visitors witness:
- Traditional dances like the Syabru and Mask Dance
- Music with long trumpets, flutes, and damphu drums
- Local costumes—hand-woven chubas, turquoise jewelry, wide-sleeved silk shirts, yak-bone ornaments
- Feasts featuring dried yak meat, tsampa (roasted barley flour), butter tea, and locally brewed alcohol
For the people of Mustang, especially those who’ve moved to cities or abroad, Yartung is a time to return home, reunite with extended families, and celebrate identity.
Experiencing Yartung as a Traveler
Travelers lucky enough to be in Mustang during Yartung are in for a rare, high-altitude cultural immersion. Here’s how to make the most of it:
- Best Time to Go: Late August (dates vary; check lunar calendar)
- Route: Trek the Lower or Upper Mustang route, or fly to Jomsom and hike to villages like Muktinath or Kagbeni.
- Permits: Lower Mustang requires an ACAP permit; Upper Mustang needs a Restricted Area Permit.
- Altitude Prep: Muktinath sits at 3,800m. Acclimatize properly.
- Stay: Guesthouses in Muktinath and surrounding villages offer simple but comfortable stays. Homestays offer deeper interaction.
Photography is allowed but must be respectful—some rituals and elders may prefer privacy.
Why Yartung Matters
While Tiji is sacred and somber, Yartung is a celebration of life—earthy, bold, and unapologetically joyous. It reflects the resilience of mountain life, the thrill of speed, and the pride of a culture that has preserved its roots against time and terrain.
In a rapidly changing world, Yartung reminds both locals and visitors that community, tradition, and wild joy are worth holding onto.