July 27, 2025

Few festivals in Nepal evoke the same sense of awe, devotion, and sheer spectacle as the Rato Machhindranath Jatra, celebrated in the heart of Patan and extending to the sacred village of Bungamati, where the deity resides during part of the year. This festival is among the oldest and most elaborate chariot festivals in the Kathmandu Valley—an extraordinary fusion of Hindu and Buddhist practices, Newar cultural identity, and ancient beliefs about nature and divinity.

The deity Rato Machhindranath, also known as Bunga Dyah, is considered a rain god and the patron of farmers, especially revered by the Newar community. To Buddhists, he is the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara; to Hindus, a form of Karunamaya. This unique duality reflects the syncretic spirituality of the Kathmandu Valley, where boundaries between faiths blur into a shared cultural tapestry.

The grand festival begins with the ceremonial transfer of the deity’s image from Bungamati, a historic Newar village located south of Patan, to the bustling city of Lalitpur (Patan). Bungamati, believed to be the original home of Rato Machhindranath, becomes a place of quiet reverence when the deity leaves and a site of immense celebration upon his return. The Machhindranath Temple in Bungamati—a striking, tiered structure heavily damaged in the 2015 earthquake—is slowly being restored, yet remains a deeply sacred site.

Once in Patan, the deity is housed temporarily in the Machhindranath Temple at Ta:Bahal, a vibrant courtyard temple surrounded by the smell of incense and the sound of bells. Preparations begin months in advance to construct the colossal chariot—or ratha—from traditional timber using age-old techniques. The towering structure, often rising over 60 feet tall, is a feat of engineering and symbolism, adorned with red fabric, banners, and guardian figures.

When the chariot is ready, the festival reaches its most dramatic phase. Over several weeks, the wooden behemoth is pulled through the streets of Patan in a chaotic, thrilling procession. Hundreds of men, chanting and shouting, haul the chariot from one neighborhood to the next, while spectators gather on rooftops and balconies to watch. Each stop marks a symbolic journey and a chance for local communities to host the god.

This chariot procession is not without its moments of chaos—steep turns, sudden stops, and the sheer effort of moving the multi-ton structure often result in nail-biting scenes. But the festival is also rich in pageantry: masked dances, ritual offerings, sacred music, and processions of priests and officials in traditional dress. At every turn, the streets of Patan become an open-air theater of devotion.

The Rato Machhindranath Festival is more than a spectacle; it is a prayer for rain, held before the monsoon, when the fertility of the land—and the livelihood of many—hinges on the arrival of seasonal rains. The festival connects deeply to the agrarian roots of the Kathmandu Valley and is a reminder of the ancient link between spirituality and sustenance.

Eventually, after the chariot has completed its journey and a separate ceremony known as Bhoto Jatra—the mysterious public display of a jewel-studded vest—is held in Jawalakhel, the god is returned to Bungamati. This return is a quieter, yet emotionally resonant event, as villagers welcome back their guardian deity in a torch-lit procession that winds through the night.

For travelers exploring cultural festivals in Nepal, or those seeking the best festivals in Patan and Bungamati, the Rato Machhindranath Jatra offers an unforgettable immersion into local tradition. It’s not just an event; it’s a lived ritual that binds communities, tells ancient stories, and celebrates the enduring relationship between the divine and the everyday.