July 28, 2025
Upper Mustang, once the independent Kingdom of Lo, is a culturally preserved enclave of Tibetan Buddhism and ancient Himalayan civilization. With its dramatic desert-like landscapes, cave monasteries, and centuries-old traditions, it remains one of the most spiritually and historically significant regions in Nepal.
Here’s a guide to the most notable religious and cultural sites in Upper Mustang.
1. Lo Manthang
- Elevation: 3,840 meters
- Status: Walled city and former capital of the Kingdom of Lo
Lo Manthang is the spiritual, cultural, and political heart of Upper Mustang. Surrounded by whitewashed walls and guarded entry gates, it contains several ancient monasteries and royal palaces.
Key sites within Lo Manthang include:
a. Thubchen Monastery
- Founded in the 15th century
- Features massive red columns, wall murals, and a high-ceiling prayer hall
- One of Mustang’s most important monasteries, recently restored with international collaboration
b. Jampa Lhakhang (Champa Gompa)
- Also known as the “God House”
- Famous for a large clay statue of Maitreya (the future Buddha)
- Houses detailed frescoes and old Tibetan manuscripts
c. Chode Monastery
- The main monastic institution in Lo Manthang
- Home to an active monastic community and the center of annual ritual events like Tiji Festival
2. Tiji Festival (Lo Manthang)
- Held in: May (dates based on the Tibetan lunar calendar)
Tiji is Upper Mustang’s most important annual festival, performed to drive away evil spirits and restore harmony. Monks from Chode Monastery perform masked dances and rituals reenacting mythological events.
It’s a profound blend of theater, faith, and community celebration, attracting both pilgrims and respectful visitors from abroad.
3. Ghar Gompa (Luri Gumba)
- Location: On the way from Dhakmar to Lo Manthang
- Founded: 8th century, attributed to Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava)
Ghar Gompa is one of the oldest and most venerated sites in Mustang. Legend holds that Guru Rinpoche subdued demons here during his mission to spread Buddhism across the Himalayas.
Set against crimson cliffs and eroded canyons, the monastery contains relics, sacred texts, and a deep connection to Mustang’s tantric heritage.
4. Chhoser Cave Monasteries
- Location: Near Lo Manthang, about 2 hours by foot or horse
The Chhoser area is famous for its sky caves—multi-story chambers carved into cliff faces, many of which were once used for meditation, burial, and shelter.
Among them:
- Jhong Cave (Sky Cave of Jhong): A vast network of rooms and tunnels believed to be over 2,000 years old.
- Nyphu Gompa: A red-hued cave monastery still in use today, tucked into the cliffside with prayer rooms and shrines.
These caves hold archaeological and spiritual importance and reflect a way of life that has survived for centuries.
5. Dhakmar and Sacred Red Cliffs
- Location: South of Lo Manthang
Dhakmar is believed to be the resting place of a demoness defeated by Guru Rinpoche. The red cliffs are said to be stained with her blood, turning the landscape into a sacred warning and protection site.
Local belief holds that one should not shout or disturb the stillness here, as it may disrespect the energies guarding the land.
6. Tsarang (Charang) Village and Tsarang Gompa
- Elevation: 3,570 meters
- Features: Large monastery and ancient palace
Tsarang was once the second most important settlement in the kingdom. Its Tsarang Gompa is painted deep red and contains ancient thankas, prayer wheels, and statues. Next to it lies the crumbling Royal Palace, still preserved as a heritage monument.
The village offers incredible views of the surrounding canyons and is often a rest point before heading to Lo Manthang.
7. Local Culture and Daily Spiritual Life
Across the Upper Mustang trail, visitors will pass dozens of mani walls, prayer wheels, chortens, and whitewashed stupas. These religious markers are often centuries old and woven into the fabric of everyday life.
Traditional homes often have altars for daily worship, and it’s common to hear the rhythmic chanting of mantras or see locals doing kora (pilgrimage circuits) around sacred sites.
Cultural Etiquette
- Respect all monasteries and ask before entering or photographing interiors.
- Walk clockwise around mani walls, chortens, and temples.
- Be mindful during festivals and ceremonies—observe respectfully and avoid interrupting rituals.
- Some monasteries may charge a small fee or donation to support upkeep.